Devil’s Backbone - Real Ale Brewing Review

At 8.1% ABV and 35 IBU, Devil’s Backbone is a Belgian-style tripel from the Texas brewing giants out of Blanco, Texas—Real Ale. This powerful old world beer is named for a stretch of Texas Hill Country highway, and if you’ve ever been up that way, you know how windy the roads can be, and we’re hoping this beer will take us on a wandering path as well, past green countrysides, fairy-like villages, and old monasteries where this luxurious beer originated.

But what’s special about tripels that they keep popping up in American craft brewing? Well, tripels, to us, are the epitome of Belgian brewing. From the malt and hop selection, to the character provided by the yeast, to the addition of pure Belgian sugars to increase strength while keeping the body light during bottle conditioning. Honestly, tripels are a bit of a dream for a brewer. And they are as sweet and complex as can be when perfected.

The traits we like to see most in a Belgian tripel are clarity, a distinct Belgian character, and power! Strap in, we’re going up the Devil’s Backbone!

Real Ale Brewing's Devil's Backbone bottle, poured into a tulip glass.

First Impressions:

  • On the Eyes--Light gold with a tinge of orange. Clear (though with an unfiltered look—Real Ale’s signature) and topped with a tight-pored and persistent cream-colored head.

  • On the Nose--That’s the distinct Belgian character we’re looking for. Notes of banana, spice, and pilsner malt. Complex aroma, lead us to a great beer!

  • On the Palate--The aroma amplified! Devil’s Backbone is dry and light but with the clove and banana flavors coming on strong and sweet before giving way to an old world and floral hop flavor offering a mild bitterness. The spice is punched up with the effervescent bite which the sweet pilsner malt plays very well with, leaving only a lingering note of apple on a dry palate.

Food Pairings: Real Ale suggests pairing Devil’s Backbone with black pepper chevre and Vietnamese cuisine. We will also suggest roasted turkey or duck, spicy coconut curry, or a Brew House favorite: pork belly tacos with an apple fennel slaw to bring out the spice and apple finish in the beer.

Final Thoughts:

Tripels were created by Trappist monks who understood brewing techniques as intimately as they knew God, it seems. And in their service to God they brewed some amazing styles of beer. This means they are very hard to recreate, especially for American brewers far from the Belgian countryside. But Real Ale has managed to create a complex, not-too-sweet, and distinctly Belgian brew with just enough bitterness to round it all out.

Devil’s Backbone is clear, light, and powerful, with a burst of flavors coming from the malt, hops, and Belgian yeast, proving Real Ale understands the techniques that go into brewing a great tripel. It’s true to form, and very much one of the better tripels you will see from an American brewer. But it’s only available for us Texans, so come visit and try one for yourself in Blanco, TX.

Cheers!

Mr. Brew

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